Fruška Gora is a low mountain in Vojvodina, between Novi Sad and Srem. It is known for two things at once: Orthodox monasteries, of which there are sixteen here, and the wine made on the surrounding slopes. It is Serbia's oldest national park: forests, trails and viewpoints over the Danube and Vojvodina.
Sixteen monasteries
The monasteries are scattered across the whole mountain; some are medieval, others were destroyed and rebuilt several times over. For so many monasteries in such a small area, Fruška Gora is called the Serbian Mount Athos. Most are open to visitors, but they are working monasteries rather than museums: dress should be modest, women usually cover their heads, and it is best to ask on site about photography inside.
Wine and cellars
Srem is wine country, and wineries with cellars where you can taste operate around the mountain. A particular local classic is bermet, the dessert wine of Sremski Karlovci, made here for a very long time. Many cellars take guests only by arrangement, so it is best to confirm your visit in advance.
What to see
Walking and cycling routes cross the park, there are viewpoints over the Danube and Vojvodina, and at the foot of the mountain sits Sremski Karlovci, a town with a seminary and old cellars. In summer it is shadier and cooler here than in the city; in autumn the forests turn.
When to go
Spring and autumn are best. In May the mountain is green and in bloom; in September and October the grape harvest and wine season are on. Summer suits shaded walks if you start in the morning, and winter is for quiet trips without crowds.
What to bring
Comfortable shoes for the trails and, if you are visiting monasteries, clothing covering shoulders and knees, with a headscarf for women. Water, a windproof jacket and cash are useful: cards are not accepted everywhere.
How much time to allow
Two or three monasteries and one winery take a full day. If you prefer not to rush, staying in Sremski Karlovci or Novi Sad and travelling around the mountain from there works well.
Getting there
- From Novi Sad: about half an hour by bus to Sremski Karlovci from the city bus station; a train from Novi Sad also runs there, with the station in the town centre.
- To the monasteries: there are no direct buses to most of them. You travel to Irig or Vrdnik and continue on foot, by taxi or by car.
- By car: the simplest option — the mountain roads are narrow, but they are what links the monasteries, wineries and viewpoints.
- By train: fast trains run between Novi Sad and Belgrade, so Fruška Gora works as a day trip from Belgrade.
- What to keep in mind: if you are going for a tasting, arrange it in advance and keep a sober driver — the bends here are narrow.