Golubac is a medieval fortress on the right bank of the Danube, right at the entrance to the Đerdap gorge. Nine towers stand above the water, and from them you look out over a river that narrows here between the cliffs. For centuries the fortress served both as a military stronghold and as a customs post on the Danube route.
A little history
Golubac changed hands many times: it was held by Serbian, Hungarian and Bulgarian rulers, and later taken by the Ottomans. It suffered badly in the wars and in recent years has been restored and opened to visitors. Today there are walkways and viewpoints inside, with explanations on the walls about how the fortress lived and how it was defended.
What to see
The walls and towers are the main thing: you can climb them and walk the perimeter looking down at the Danube. A separate part of the visit is the view of the gorge itself: the river is wide at Golubac but is already beginning to be squeezed by the cliffs, and that is visible right from the fortress.
What is nearby
Close by is Lepenski Vir, a Stone Age site where traces of an ancient settlement were found on the bank. Beyond it begins the Đerdap national park, with its viewpoints and a road that runs along the water's edge.
When to go
April to October is the most comfortable stretch. In summer go in the morning: by midday the exposed walls are hot and there is almost no shade. Spring and autumn are milder, while winter is windy and cold on the bank, though far less crowded.
What to bring
Comfortable shoes — the climbs up the towers are by steps — plus water and a hat. Cash for the entrance and a camera are worth having: the view of the Danube from the towers is one of the best on the whole river.
Getting there
- By bus from Belgrade: from the main bus station (BAS) to Golubac — about nine departures a day, roughly two hours on the road.
- From the bus station: the fortress stands above the water on the way out of town; it is a short walk — about two kilometres from the centre along the road.
- By car: from Belgrade via Smederevo and on along the right bank of the Danube. The road narrows where it is squeezed against the cliffs, but it runs right along the gorge.
- What to keep in mind: ask the driver where to get off — the stop by the fortress and the one in the centre are not always the same. Check the return departure in advance.